“A winter in Paris in which opposites attract“: this is how Chanel defined the collection that it revealed this Tuesday at Paris Fashion Week, where it recovered its most well-known codes, such as black and white or the contrast of textures, with a mountaineering point.
In the absence of a catwalk, then all the parades of this edition are held virtually due to the pandemic, the firm turned to one of the best-known streets of the Parisian night, Rue Princesse, in the central district of Odéon, where its models sneaked into a clandestine party at the famous private club Castel. A nostalgic nod to fun and nightlife that in France has been canceled for a whole year due to restrictions to curb the coronavirus.
Recorded by Dutch duo Inez & Vinoodh, who have been at the forefront of campaign photography since the death of designer Karl Lagerfeld in 2019, the models wore wide-cut tailored suits in ‘tweed’ and baggy military-style coats.
The key to the collection was the combination of ‘tweed’, the typical Scottish openwork woolen fabric, with a mix of geometric prints, metallic applications and volumes. An imposing ‘kilt’ type skirt is worn with a close-fitting cardigan and fur boots, while a military coat, long to the feet, combines with a very short draped dress.
The autumn-winter 2021/2022 collection also played with the house codes, the love for skiing -as it was seen in the boots but also in the knitted sweaters with Nordic motifs and the exaggerated down jackets in coats- and the white pairing and black. Parallel to the sensuality of men’s suits combined with corset tops, in black lace and close to the body, the brand introduced dresses with semitransparency, in which a band and a pleated wool skirt are joined in a translucent black tulle dress that leaves the belly and shoulders exposed.
The evening style alternated with other outfits that were much more youthful and with an eighties point such as bermuda jumpsuits, printed knit dresses or quilted effect overalls engraved with the logo of the house that become evening garments over lace shirts. He also highlighted a black work jumpsuit printed with camellia flowers, combined with a lilac blouse and chain belt.
A bolder proposal
The black and white, essential in the brand, filled the boots, which were also worn in white and black toe (Coco Chanel’s secret to stylize the legs and hide the big feet), but above all in the outfits, where leather, tulle, wool and silk were used to create opulent and pleasant looking textures.
A few touches of earth tones, aubergine, terracotta and camel added a warmer touch to the line, in a series of metallic coats but also in some fun fur jackets with matching skirt, a charming way to reinvent her ‘tweed’ suit.
The designer, Virginie Viard, who had opted for a more minimalist Chanel in her first collections since 2019, dared on this occasion with a bolder and more abundant proposal in jewelry and accessories. The makeup – with a smoky effect on the eyes – and the hairstyles remained natural, with some simple straightening and surf waves, when the hair was not covered by a knitted wool cap.
In the absence of celebrities, the firm had singers such as the Korean G-Dragon, the Belgian Angèle, the American Andra Day and the American actress Margaret Qualley, who participated in a video prior to the parade, disseminated on social networks, adding the glamor point that the virtual world is leaving behind.
The Parisian catwalk closes this Wednesday, after nine days of presentations, with the virtual Louis Vuitton fashion show, which will show its proposals for next autumn-winter.
Eddie is an Australian news reporter with over 9 years in the industry and has published on Forbes and tech crunch.