Saturday, April 20

Churrasqueira Sever: eating well in a seedy environment


The restaurant in Marvão where we eat today is called
Steakhouse Sever, is in Portagem, on the road parallel to the river, and has two floors. The noble, the nice, the correct is the superior. If it is full, they will take you to the ground floor. Resist if you can (sometimes the surrounding restaurants are full and you have no choice but to go downstairs if you want to have lunch or dinner), but resist because the ground floor is sad, soulless and has a smell of sewage that ruins any dish.

We did not know the details, the first floor was full, we went downstairs and ate dinner wrapped in
a perfume not intoxicatedr. If the first thing we perceive in a restaurant are aromas and smells and that influences 50% of our feeling of comfort, overcoming this bad impression is going to cost us. To continue with the negative, the appetizers they offer, and charge for, are the usual butter and pâtés in colored containers and some olives that we reject. The bread, which comes in paper bags, is not very interesting, the Dudson crockery is ordinary and the cutlery is unremarkable.
paper tableclothpaper napkins and we approach the menu with the fervent desire that the food allows us to overcome this cocktail of uninspiring first impressions.

Lower floor lounge. /

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It’s a long letter, very long, with 96 plates. Appetizers based on sausages, cheeses, scrambled eggs, octopus, clams and, surprise: thrush fried in oil. You know, the thrush is that bird that loves olives, at least that’s what popular sayings from Extremadura say.
There is an interesting vegetarian entrees section focused on mushrooms, traditional soups, a good range of fish and a spectacular section of Iberian pork, beef, lamb and even fighting bull meat, all ‘grelhadas’ with oak charcoal. Traditional desserts and a detail worthy of applause: 10 ‘mini-pratos’ or half portions that we recommend because we ask for the half of ‘picanha aberdeen black angus’ and, of course, in Spain it would be a complete and generous portion.

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More in tune and happy with the selection of dishes on the menu, we take a look at the wine selection and 167 references amaze us.
We had never seen such a varied winery and well conceived in our Portuguese gastronomic experiences. The menu is divided into Alentejo reds (an overwhelming selection), old wines from the Alentejo and other regions, red wines from Setúbal, Bairrada e Dão, Douro, Riojas, Riberas del Duero and the Extremaduran Monasterio de Tentudía and a Madre del Agua 2009 a offer price. They continue with French and Argentine wines, white wines from Alentejo and other Portuguese regions, and end with green, rosé, sparkling, magnum and double magnum wines (3 litres).
The contrast between such a spectacular winery and such a controversial setting is almost violent..

But let’s go with the kitchen. we order one
vegetable soup, which is delicious, but a waiter brings it down the stairs instead of using the forklift, so the soup wobbles, the waiter brings it on the plate, not in a tureen, and oh, his thumb leaves his imprint on the yellow border. It seems like a joke.

Vegetable soup. /

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It’s dim, but more customers come in, they turn on more lights (dark for two, bright for six) and so we can get a good look at the gargantuan portion of sea bream with vegetables.
Well cooked fish and good vegetable garnish, but it is not seasoned and the waiter is one of those who pass by looking at the ground, don’t ask him for something, so we gave up asking for oil after several attempts.

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The
half picaña is our next dish. As always in Portugal, the side dish fries become pure vice as soon as you taste them. The picaña is at its point, the meat is good and the vegetables, again without seasoning. This restaurant needs a point of reflection and change. It may not be that its cuisine is convincing and its wine cellar shines, but the service and the environment detract from both, at least in one of the dining rooms.

Half picana. /

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For ‘desktop’, we order pineapple, which in Portugal is usually a dessert with substance. And they do not fail: formidable slice without chantillis, syrups or zarandajas. The pure flavor of pineapple sweetening a contradictory, paradoxical, inexplicable experience.

Dessert. /

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Steakhouse Sever

  • Address: Rua Nova, 24

  • Location: Portagem (Marvao)

  • Telephone: +351 245 993 458

  • Schedule: Closed Wednesday. Other days: 12-16 and 19-22

  • Terrace: Nope

  • Do you have Cruzcampo?: Nope


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