In periods of crisis, certain trends repeat themselves. Within the hospitality industry there is now a clear return to traditional dishes, that kind of refuge values for the sense of taste, as affirmed by the French sociologist Claude Fischler. There is nothing strange that this place that boasts a traditional tavern with great urban scenery, recently opened in Madrid under the banner of the Black Carbon Group, record daily fillings. The menu, carefully considered by Hugo Muñoz and Sergio Palomares, executive chefs of the company, denotes the effort to recover Madrid recipes as they appear in old cookbooks. “We defend simmering, homemade stews and dishes,” they say. The list includes a concise assortment of cans, pickles, salted meats and cold meats, so typical of bars, apart from traditional stews. “Every day of the week we offer a spoon dish: chickpeas with cuttlefish, lentils, poached beans with changurro and potatoes with ribs. We even make fabada with fabes fresh frozen, just like the best Asturian restaurants ”, they emphasize.
Two young cooks, Cris Martín and Inés López, come out gracefully from the commitment to lead the brigade. “We like to cook like our grandmothers did, but with current knowledge and techniques,” they say. From cold bites to hot dishes, most of their specialties meet relief. The gildas, very fine the Anchovies in vinegar with potato chips of bag and remarkable the Picaña jerky. The same as their Ham croquette, of fluid mass. On the other hand, the squid ridges, with a coarse rebozo, are not convincing, nor are the tortilla skewers, something nondescript. Two of his proposals are unavoidable: the magnificent patatas bravas, which are fried in two times and drizzled with the humble but succulent sauce of stew broth, ham bone, paprika and onion; and also him Andalusian muffin stuffed with meat and bacon from the stew, absolutely addictive. Nor does it detract from the picaña burger, undercooked, a kind of steak tartar hot. Not two of their traditional stews, such as chicken in pepitoria, which traces the recipes of the food houses, or the stewed veal tail. Desserts (torrija; flan; cheesecake) do not deviate from the concept.
In short, a promising project, with flanks to improve such as the lack of coordination that the room still suffers.
- Address: Calle de Velázquez, 97. Madrid
- Telephone: 911 08 88 08
- Web: elcastizodevelazquez.com
- Closes: does not close (open non-stop from breakfast to dinner)
- Price: between 35 and 45 euros per person. Muffin pringá, 6.50 euros. Patatas bravas, 5.50. Red prawns with garlic, 19.90. Country chicken in pepitoria, 16. Traditional milk torrija, 7.50.
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