Tuesday, November 30

How to eat: ice cream cones | Ice cream and sorbet

METERanchester is the birthplace of many momentous phenomena: the first programmable computer, Phil Foden, Factory Records, graphene, Emmeline Pankhurst, Afrika space, vegetarianism, communism and Coronation Street. But could the city have also played a pivotal role in creating … the ice cream cone?

Definitely to quote one of the city’s favorite sons, perhaps.

In 1901, Antonio Valvona, one of Manchester’s many ice cream makers Little Italy, registered the first patented machine to make edible cookie containers for its ice cream. They were cups, not cones, and the idea was not entirely new (in 1887, the so-called Ice Cream Queen of England, Agnes B Marshall, published a recipe for serving ice cream in baked cornets). But in partnership with businessman Frank Marchiony, Valvona will soon making their mugs in New York, two years before ice cream cones, then known as cornucopias, became a big hit at the 1904 St. Louis World’s Fair.

Pretty when and how the cup became a cone is lost in a puzzling number to compete claim (is. The American ice cream scene of the early 1900s was a competitive and lucrative world of dramatic subplots. In 1910, Frank Marchiony and his cousin, Italo, now regularly identified as the true creator of the ice cream cone, the right to produce them was disputed in court. But undoubtedly the industrial ingenuity of East Manchester contributed to this transformation.

That ingenuity freed ice cream lovers from the dangers of unsanitary “penny-licks,” hastily washed little glasses that the big wash would later eat ice cream from. It also saved humanity from the precarious engineering flaw that is the ice cream wafer sandwich; today enjoyed only by pretentious rebels.

The cone was clearly superior and came to dominate 20th century ice cream. Bathtub purists fight rear-guard action against its ubiquity, but to no avail. From the classic icky van soft-serve 99 to the deluxe waffle cones filled with sea buckthorn ice cream and crushed Brontë pistachios, the cone is portable, one-handed and waste-free in the UK. Favourite.

But what constitutes a next-level cone? How to Eat, the series that examines the optimal way to eat Britain’s favorite foods, has some ideas on this.

Cone selection

Ice cream cones
Wafer or waffle cone? Photograph: We Are / Getty Images

Time to rethink the wafer cone? In the age of sugar cones and waffles, the wafer, essentially structured air, has become the cheap, cheerful and tasteless option. But could this lack of overt flavor be positive?

From mis-extracted ice cream with branded chocolate chunks to fresh, clearly defined ice cream flavors, we live in an era of fast-paced ice cream sophistication. So it seems sensible to prioritize ice cream flavor and not leave you biased by the often sickly sweet cookie of these supposedly fancy sugar or waffle cones *.

Good ice cream sparkles in a neutral wafer cone. With the added bonus that if you can’t force the ice cream down the stem of the cone (see, eating action), you won’t be left eating a dry brown cone but easily digestible wafer fragments will dissolve quickly. Wafer that cleanses the palate after the main event. Note: Look for XL wafer cones if you need double blade loading capacity.

exist sensational waffle cones, made with honey, molasses, syrup, unusual oils, brown sugar, butter, and cinnamon. In their caramelised complexity, adjacent to the tuile, they combine with the layered flavors of the ice cream they contain. But these are rare. Most often, the waffle cone is used for two reasons. Its stiff edges allow staff to scrape through dense ice cream with less breakage and this handcrafted fake accessory helps justify the £ 4 price. Does it add to the overall experience, however? Not regularly.

* Waffle and sugar cones are made from similar ingredients. The former are softer with a flat edge. Thicker waffle cones have grid indentation with a curved edge.

Cone accessories

Ice cream cone
A cone with all the trimmings. Photograph: Catherine Falls Commercial / Getty Images

From rims decorated with hundreds and thousands (how old are you, five?) To the “chocolate-flavored” substances that cones are sometimes dipped in, it all feels like unnecessary browning – an OTT appeal that adds little flavor. .

Prissy napkin twists or paper covers wrapped around the stem are also superfluous. This supposedly elegant touch denies you the tactile pleasure of feeling the textured cone. If ice cream gets on your fingers, you are eating too slowly.

A tablespoon or two?

Interestingly, HTE has never seen anyone rock two different flavors in a traditional two-cup wafer cone. That’s a ship reserved exclusively for Double 99 (about which, HTE remains ambivalent). Rather, the two firsts are a modern invention, fueled simultaneously by the rise of bigger, sleeker cones, the Insta-friendly colors of loaded jumbo services, and the late-capitalist ability to seed insatiable greedy maximalism in all things. Enough is never enough. More is always more.

Or that sells us. In fact, enjoying just one ice cream flavor is optimal. If the ice cream is good enough, it will keep the interest. It should be obvious that if you choose to combine flavors, those flavors need to complement each other in a mutually reinforcing way. For example, salted caramel and chocolate instead of summer berry cheesecake and mint chocolate chips. But given some of the provocative abominations you see people eating, it bears repeating.

Act of eating

Child eating melted ice cream
I could do better … Photograph: Sally Anscombe / Getty Images

In Italy, The walkAn evening stroll, quite possibly with ice cream in hand, is a national pastime. But walking around with ice cream distracts you from eating. Ice cream becomes incidental. That seems a shame.

Better to find a wall, a bus stop, or a patch of grass where you can sit, or a door to hang out, where you can eat intensively.

First, quickly lick around the edge of the cone, turning it against your tongue, to avoid dripping. Once you’ve created a manageable dome, relax. Now you can proceed at a leisurely pace, delighting in each steady, determined lick. And it should be a lick, not a sip, not a drink, definitely not a monstrous bite (psychopaths only to bite ice cream). Every now and then you may need to take a guppy-like bite to remove any wobbly hints, but these should be modest and infrequent, otherwise you’re inhaling rather than enjoying the ice cream. Lick that cone until it submits.

As you do so, with the flat part of your tongue, gently poke some ice cream into the cone. It is an unworthy procedure that requires dexterity, but it is essential to avoid staying with, horribly, an empty cone end. There is literally no fun in it.

Dressings … or not

Does it mean perfect plain?
Does it mean perfect plain? Photograph: Lucy Lambriex / Getty Images

The list of desirable ingredients for ice cream is remarkably short. In the context of proper flavor, the extraterrestrial, hypersynthetic intensity of the raspberry or strawberry sauce is exceptional (contrast these with the musty artifice of most dark chocolate syrups). Several rungs on the culinary ladder, salted caramel sauce makes everything better: chicken, muesli, definitely ice cream. A little bit of honeycomb chip powder or pretzel crumbs can work too, but little else works.

Chopped walnuts turn into gravel in ice cream. The pieces or sticks of fudge are simply too. Ornamental wafers are puzzling (no one has ever said, “You know what this ice cream needs, more wafer!”). Marshmallow chunks, jelly candies, or other cut-price treats have no place in ice cream, hanging around with your treats. size nines. Smashed meringue sounds more appealing but just as nauseating. Freeze-dried fruits might add a touch of pucker to ice cream, but they unleash with all the subtlety of an artillery barrage.

HTE would argue that the biggest myth in the topping game is that chocolate works with ice cream. It is a combination that repeatedly delivers less than the sum of its parts.

Think of chocolate (chips, balls, shards, etc.) as flavor and aroma compounds encased in cocoa butter. That butter should melt easily for a smooth mouthfeel and to release these compounds. Combined with ice cream, you will have a hard time making it, because unless you keep it in your mouth for an abnormally long time, the chocolate will be too cold to melt easily.

Tackling this tricky problem – creating chocolate that behaves favorably in ice cream – is something that food science has only recently tackled. You can’t just break up any old chocolate and dip a cone in it. You might get a fleeting chocolate hit that way, but in HTE’s opinion, it will have a relatively gritty, waxy, and diminished quality. Better save that chocolate for another time.


Have you ever seen someone serve ice cream in cones at home? Puzzling, huh? A waste of money, calories and time if you own bowls and spoons. In public, the ice cream cone is convenient. At home, it’s a pretty ridiculous affectation. As for buy equipment to make your own waffle cones, HTE is putting that idea on a to-do list by the 12th of never.

To drink

Any. Ice cream wreaks confusing temperature havoc with tea and coffee, turns wine into battery acid and beer into a hint of metallic bitterness. If you really You should wash your tonsils with a jet of water, you need something carbonated and stridently sweet that can be imposed against ice cream. Pop fizzy, basically.

So, ice cream cones, how do you eat yours?


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