Thursday, March 28

Joan Ros Garrofé: Rigoberta Bandini’s tailor


Joan Ros Garrofé is one of the names that have come to the fore after the great wave generated by the Eurovision circus. This 29-year-old from Lleida is the designer of the dress worn by Rigoberta Bandini in their performances during the controversial Benidorm Fest, a contest from which Chanel came out as the representative of Spain in Eurovision. Ros has made the outfit worn by Catalan Paula Ribó (Rigoberta Bandini’s real name) as celebrated as her song, ‘Ay mama’.

A wardrobe – also that of his companions on stage – made against the clock since he began to imagine it at Christmas when a mutual friend put them in contact. Only Rigoberta Bandini’s dress (white, bridal) takes 10 hours of work on the machine that laser cuts the fabric. “It has been a job of haute couture. And it had to come out the first time… It was two weeks of madness!”, says the Catalan designer.

The dress is also the message

A garment that in itself was already a message since Ros –who confesses that he had already soaked up the song before the commission– thought of recovering the rugs of the grandmothers. His mind was also haunted by those who did his. “It’s a way of paying tribute to mothers, and to our mothers’ mothers,” he explains, overwhelmed by the impact of his work.

Also in the change of costumes during the performance of the song is the message: “She starts out super-elegant, with the kind of femininity we’ve been led to believe she should be, and ends up in a jumpsuit with absolutely no adornment, raw, like she’s naked.” “It’s like we wanted to play in her league, with an elegant dress, the perfect woman, to end up showing that it’s not what interests us, or that we’re looking for something else,” she adds.

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“We wanted to play in her league, with a ‘perfect woman’ dress, to end up showing that it is not what interests us”

Joan Ross


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The costumes were woven with his ideas, those of Ribó and those of Esteban Navarro, comedian and Rigoberta Bandini’s partner and musician. It is easy to attribute to the latter that one of the words engraved on the dress is to the Aneto broth, gracieta in reference to one of the verses of the song. “My job as a designer is to listen to the people I’m dressing, in this case a woman, and take a backseat. There are decisions that she had to make.”, comments the man from Lleida.

Costume for ‘The Big City’. Charlotte Warrior


Your hardest job

Ros explains that this dress has “a lot of essence” of what she usually does but that stylistically not so much. “You showed it to me a year ago and I never would have thought I would make a dress like this,” she confesses. Not because he doesn’t like it, but because until now what he did was very different. “I normally do tailoring, a lot of jackets, pants… very minimalist,” he says.

Joan Ros Garrofé. Paul Hyde


In his script there are no patterns or roles. “I design clothes, I sew… Does this have a gender? I don’t think so. I think about the person who can wear it, but I think about what kind of tastes it may have, not whether it is a man, a woman or gender not binary”, he exposes.

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Ros also confesses that due to “the time and the importance of the context” in which he taught his work, it is the most difficult thing he has done in his professional life who, despite his youth, already has a good handful of collections in his portfolio. Ros lives in Barcelona after working in London, where she studied for a master’s degree at the most prestigious fashion school in the world (Central Saint Martins), and Milan. Before, at the age of 21, he won with his partner Jessica Montes the National Award for Emergent Design that is delivered at the 080 Barcelona Fashion Week with a firm called Isometric created for the contest.

“When designing, I think about what tastes a person can have, not about whether they are a man, a woman or gender non-binary”

Joan Ross


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However, now he is the coordinator of the fashion department of the BAU university in Barcelona – where he studied -, he is in the midst of producing the costumes for numerous theater and dance shows and has been the designer behind the revival of the Spanish firm Armand Basi.

Armand Basi collection designed by Joan Ros. granted


He is also doing his doctorate: a work on the class struggle and the working class. “I investigate through fashion the political power that a piece has, the symbolic power of a design…”, he says. After having contributed to the success of the Bandini phenomenon, he only has two goals: “To have mental health and spend more time with my friends.”

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