Thursday, December 2

Madrid is Fashion: the power of a good pose | People


The security guard waiting at the atelier designer Moisés Nieto does not keep any jewelery or valuable object. She has come to try on her clothes for the event that opens the new edition of Madrid es Moda next Tuesday the 14th. Namely: aquamarine trousers and shirt, and patent leather boots with impressive square heels. Because Jesus Kobu is a watchman by day and a star of the voguing at night; that dance that emulates the poses of the models and that Madonna popularized with her video clip Vogue in 1990. However, the roots of this discipline lie in the New York LGTBIQ + community of the sixties, which built around it and its competitions —the ballrooms— a safe space of freedom, celebration and vindication.

Mine The bone It sums it up wrapped in a two-tone fur coat. “When I am in a ball I feel free, nobody judges me and I can be the person I want and that, sometimes, on the street is not so easy to be. And that, as a trans girl, is still very important ”. Along with 13 other dancers, Kobu and Mía will recreate a ballroom dressed in garments from the autumn-winter collections of some of the 30 designers participating in Madrid es Moda, such as Moisés Nieto, Brain & Beast, Carlota Barrera, Leandro Cano or Mans. It will compete in five categories – ranging from American Runway (emulating a traditional parade) until the Hands Perfomance (focused on the movements of the hands) – and it will be held on Tuesday the 14th at 6:30 p.m. in Madrid’s Plaza de Colón. There will be an enclosed space of stands for about 80 guests, but the show can be seen from the street. The garments will also have a built-in QR code that will be projected on screens and that will allow immediate access to your purchase online.

Mía 'La huesito' and Jesús Kobu are two of the 'voguing' dancers who will recreate a 'ballroom dressed' with garments from the autumn-winter collections at the opening event.
Mía ‘La huesito’ and Jesús Kobu are two of the ‘voguing’ dancers who will recreate a ‘ballroom dressed’ with garments from the autumn-winter collections at the opening event. INMA FLORES / EL PAIS

It is not the first time that the dancers of voguing they replace the models on the catwalk. Thus, Ana Locking presented her memorable spring summer 2019 collection three years ago. The connection between these two worlds is not forced: fashion is a central element in dance battles. It is explained by Silvia Mannequeen, organizer of Madrid es Moda and one of the pioneers of the community ballroom in Spain: “The participants create their own styles. It is not only about gaining recognition among competitors, but also security and self-esteem. In addition to creativity, the use of resources and recycling are hallmarks of aesthetics. vogue”. Mine The bone is the test posing and with hair down to the waist: “Once I made a dress with garbage bags that you do not see what lookazo”, He assures.

With this ballroom, Madrid es Moda not only aims to attract the attention of the media and Madrid, but also to link to the values ​​of diversity, inclusion and collaboration that this community represents, as explained by Pepa Bueno, executive director of ACME, the Association of Fashion Creators of Spain, which has organized this event since 2015. While at the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid – which is held from September 16 to 19 at Ifema – the designers present their proposals for the next spring-summer season and they do so, in most cases, through face-to-face fashion shows. or digital, in Madrid es Moda (which ends on the 21st) the collections that are currently on sale are shown, either in the showroom located in the center Belgian sawmill -Which can be attended by appointment- or events and actions in different areas of the city, such as the presentation of The Extreme Collection at the Wellington hotel.

Moisés Nieto tries on a two-color fur coat on Mía 'La huesito', during the 'fitting' in his workshop.
Moisés Nieto tries on a two-color fur coat on Mía ‘La huesito’, during the ‘fitting’ in his workshop. INMA FLORES / EL PAIS

“There is no longer the obsession with the traditional parade that dominated before the pandemic. There are other ways to communicate your work. Not getting on the catwalk is no longer a Greek tragedy, ”says Pepa Bueno from ACME. The always prolific Moisés Nieto tells, while taking measurements to Kobu, that he will show his autumn-winter 2021 collection at the ballroom; and the spring-summer 2022 runway on the Barcelona runway 080. In January, it will launch another one made in collaboration with five creators of La Hagaía, a platform that brings together and gives visibility to artisans from Madrid and that it will present precisely in Madrid es Moda. “I think that all these initiatives should be centralized under the same name and umbrella. So many quotes only confuse the consumer and the media. I also think that we have to look for other objectives for these events, beyond appearing on the news ”. The festival of poses and attitude that will unfold in the Plaza de Colón promises to capture minutes of television and Instagram Stories. Fashion holds the pose.


elpais.com

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