Friday, September 24

Readers’ Complaints: The Butter-Losing Chocolate Coulant

To Antonio, the flowing Butter drips from chocolate, which is a fine thing: “Making the recipe all in half, I don’t know if the proportions are failing: I have a lot of butter left over. I don’t even have to put butter in the molds. ” I read Antonio’s query aloud and, without being any of that me, me sale a touch of Gloria Serra of eating things, so it is time to investigate chocolate things. Ana Vega ‘Biscayenne’ already makes it clear in the introduction of the recipe that this is a simplified version of the successful original recipe of flowing of chocolate by Michel Bras. This has two different formulas for the melting core and the cake that contains it and, although the formula is very different, it also maintains a large proportion of fat – cream and butter – and chocolate.

Most of the easy versions of flowing circulating around replicate the pattern of half and half of chocolate and butter in a single elaboration, like the foodie recipe. Hands at work, using half the ingredients and with melted chocolate in the corners of her mouth, this gluttonous defender managed to make three very apparent coulants, without any excess butter or oozing anywhere. They unmold them cleanly without the need to add cocoa to the mold and without leaving significant buttery residues inside.

I try to analyze where the fault could be and my cerebellum is dry. In a dough that begins its preparation by melting and mixing chocolate and butter, I do not understand how one of the two parts can be left over if both are integrated into a whole. Is Antonio’s kitchen scale a manual saboteur? Did our reader weigh the ingredients in a hurry or looking distractedly away? We will never know, but the recipe, for my part, has no buts.


Mercedes intended to cook the pancake of grapefruit and got a beautiful biodegradable paperweight: “Although the recipe is for idiots, it has not worked for me. The recipe for the dough is incomprehensible to me. I had to stick my fingers into the dough a bit because it didn’t mix. After taking it out of the fridge there was no human way to crush that stone ball. So, consulted other basic recipes of pancake, I decided to add some cold water. I had no choice but to use a foil on top of the dough to be able to handle it. It is sticky, because I could not obey the original instructions. “

Making the dough pancake I have felt like Mercedes, although I have had better luck, because despair has been waiting at the door and I have been able to resolve the matter with my usual Basque phlegm.

I could have recorded a really funny meme while trying to form the dough with a fork, because I spent a long time tapping it without getting the cold butter cubes to change state. In the end, I had to put my hands and form it with my fingers, resulting in a perfect and manageable short dough. I made the ball and put it in the refrigerator for two hours. When I took it out, I felt Isabel Díaz Ayuso at the Madrid Assembly: I had to let the dough warm for an hour to be able to stretch it and form the base of the pancake.

The problem for Mercedes was not the proportions of the recipe, which are impeccable, but the excess cooling time of the dough. I understand that, by adding more cold water after forming and resting it, I obtained that sticky dough impossible to handle, because the proportions were altered. In my experience, the cooling time should be shorter, just enough to restore the necessary firmness to the butter to be able to knead the base without problems. Mercedes, don’t be put off by this recipe: cut the butter into very small cubes, use your fingers to form the dough, and keep it for only 30 minutes in the fridge before shaping it.


Yago doesn’t know it yet, but he urgently needs another new oven: “This past weekend I started with the recipe for roasted red cabbage with mojo, because of trying new ways of eating vegetables. I used a small cabbage quartered and after 3/4 of an hour it was hard like it was freshly dipped. I left her on for 20 more minutes and she hardly got any better. In the end, I decided to pour some water into the tray and put the lid back on. With that and another 15 minutes, after passing it through the pan it could be eaten, but it still lacked another 10 minutes of steam, really. I am not sure if it is an oven problem, which I do not believe because it is new, and even if it was not well preheated, after all that time it should not matter. “

I finish reading Yago’s query by counting with my fingers: 45 + 20 + 15 = 80 minutes of cooking + X minutes of strong frying pan + 10 minutes of steam that never came. This account of the old woman is screaming at us that something is wrong with her oven or the porcelain red cabbage that decorates Mrs. Julia’s vegetable stall was taken from the market.

I turned on the oven and gave a kiss to the red cabbage to conjure up the baking success. I completed the 45 minutes at 180ºC obtaining a vegetable that had sweated a bit but was still too al dente. I added 15 minutes and, for my taste, it was already starting to be chewy, but I decided to give it 10 more minutes of cooking. With this time, a firm but perfectly edible cabbage is obtained, yes, far from those super-pasty vegetables that we have been so fond of for years in Spanish kitchens.

If there is a trend that we embrace at El Comidista, it is not to make the vegetables dizzy with endless cooking that leaves them done with foxes, blandurrias and a little disgusting. This recipe is a clear example of this trend, in which the author leaves the cooking time open to subsequent modifications to suit the chef’s taste and the temperature variations found in domestic ovens.


Juan, Diego and Elisa, living together, decided to make wind fritters to pass the time: “The first half of the fritters were not hollow. The raw filling remained.

The second batch of frying has turned out quite well, although not ideal either. We do not know if we have changed something by forming them. We have looked for the process by which they grow without yeast. Like we have soon removed the mass from the heat. We have also found recipes that add yeast. Is it worth adding yeast? “

The fritters in this recipe are made with pasta cabbage, a dough that never has yeast. You have probably found other donut recipes that do use it, but with other doughs, like beignet, which can have a leavening agent, either a chemical booster – Royal type or raising agent -, egg white beaten to the point of snow or a carbonated drink (beer, soda, etc).

Pasta cabbage It must be formed with great patience, adding the eggs one by one in the final process, and both the frying temperature and the size of the portion of dough that each donut will form are important. If the donut is too big, the inside is in danger of being raw. If the temperature of the oil is too high, the outside can be very browned while the inside remains uncooked. If the oil temperature is too low, the fistro diodenal is served.

My defender’s nose tells me that the problem in this case was the frying temperature. That’s why the first batch was a failure while the second improved somewhat: you probably started to fry them with a temperature that was too low that rose in the second batch, although it seems like not enough so that you could bump your elbows and dance the happy donut dance. .

My advice is that, in addition to pampering the dough as if it were a treasure, you control the temperature of the frying with a kitchen thermometer. You will feel a little Ferran Adrià, to the point that you may end up spherified.

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