Sunday, June 26

Roland Mouret and Rejina Pyo Challenge Conventionality at London Fashion Week | London fashion week

London Fashion Week is back, but it’s not back to normal.

Roland Mouret, whose usual shift in pre-pandemic fashion week was a parade at the National Theater, commissioned a film in which actors dressed their new collection as costumes while their characters dined, danced and rode motorcycles.

Meanwhile, Rejina Pyo’s show opened with Team GB athletes diving off the diving board at the London Aquatic Center, rather than with a model walking the runway.

“I’m not going to pretend the world is the way it used to be,” Mouret said before the screening. “An impact on this scale [the pandemic] it’s like divorce or pain. It will take at least five years for society to recover, for politics to recover, and the same goes for fashion ”.

He presented his collection to Nigerian-French actor, writer and director Magaajyia Silberfeld, who wore the clothes in a short film, Terma, which reformulates the myth of Ulysses from the point of view of Hera.

“I owe a lot of my career to the amazing women who have worn my clothes, so I thought it was time to step back for a moment and see my clothes with feminine eyes,” Mouret said. “I am not in fashion to make objects with women. I want to be a part of fashion week, but not send girls to walk a runway. “

European Championship silver medalist Robyn Birch, along with fellow international divers Emily Martin and Josie Zillig, performed choreographed dives for the occasion at the beginning and end of the Pyo show, wearing designer swimwear.

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“I feel like the mood around us right now is about a yearning for freedom, and the place where I feel most free is in the water,” Pyo said in a video call before the show. “For obvious sustainability reasons, I don’t want to build a set for a show that’s dismantled and thrown out the next day, so I was looking for a place that had water and a sense of drama as well. The London Aquatic Center is so beautiful. “

After an acknowledgment coincided with Olympians using the 10-meter board to practice, “it was fascinating!” – invited divers to be part of his return to London fashion week.

Terma begins with Hera, played by Silberfeld, getting out of a taxi on a dusty Greek road in a yellow shirt dress that Mouret sees as a new hero piece. “Post-Covid fashion is about clothes that conform to reality, clothes that become your best friend. Day dresses are less tight at the waist now, ”believes Mouret, who rose to fame on the back of the stretch hourglass construction of the Galaxy dress.

Next month it will launch Roland Mouret Body, a range of sportswear. “Covid has shown us how important sport is to keeping mental health in balance, for many of us.”

Mouret added that selling evening wear remains a challenge, as event restrictions come and go in different territories. “A month ago America was opening up and everyone was sorting out my evening dresses. And now they have a variant and they don’t want evening dresses anymore. “

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