Monday, January 30

The keys to the success of Azabache

The trajectory of Don José, known throughout the world as ‘Tarra’, Azabache’s alma mater, is well known to all lovers of Badajoz gastronomy. The ill-fated Lex was the venue that made it widely known. That restaurant set a trend in Badajoz. To this day, with more boards and shots hit, Azabache is an imitation, for now, more restrained from that place. Surely Pedro Infante, a partner, and Nuria Bermejo, a woman from Tarra, contribute to this moderation.

Azabache is perfectly located, in the heart of Badajoz. The pedestrian street in which it is located allows them to have a large terrace. Perhaps, at times, excessively wide. The interior, sufficient for the purpose of the premises, especially if it accompanies good weather.

The meal in Azabache always begins with the arrival at the table of our protagonist. It is there where he displays his self-confidence. Knowing what he is doing, he suggests and takes the order for the table. I don’t know if due to his excessive skill, the rest of the service is somewhat overshadowed and, at times, they give a certain sensation of indifference.

Of the starters, some razor clams stand out, smooth, with a very good grilling point and lightly seasoned with garlic and parsley oil. Some anchovies from Santoña were not so worth it, although they were very well made, they had an excess of salt and were accompanied by a salmorejo that was a bit old with garlic.

He upgraded the menu with a fantastic tuna belly with tomato. The tuna, perfectly cooked, was smothered in a canonical tomato sauce that, apart from enhancing the flavours, added a sweet tooth to the whole dish. Correct some very fresh red mullets “on the grill” that, possibly, were baked. They were a little overdone, although very rich in flavor.

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Among the meats, we must highlight the different cuts of beef. In our case, a well-knit beef T-Bone, accompanied by some delicious French fries and piquillo peppers. An Iberian rib cooked at a low temperature and finished in the oven could be greatly improved. Although it had an excess of salt, perhaps the biggest problem was that the personality of the product, due to vacuum cooking and its poor finish in the kitchen, was totally blurred.

In the wine section, nothing remarkable. The typical offer of local wines, Riberas del Duero and Riojas. I guess it’s not worth it to have a somewhat broader and less predictable wine list, although some customers would appreciate it.

In summary, Azabache has lights and shadows. Of course, if you know how to choose from the extensive menu, it’s worth it. Could it improve in some aspects? Without a doubt, but who is not free to improve in what he does? You just need to want to address these improvements and not settle for success, whose dynamics can lead to lack of control. Hopefully they know how to manage it.


  • Address: Sor Agustina Street, 3

  • Location: bajadoz

  • Schedule: Monday from 7:00 to 12:00. From Tuesday to Friday: from 7.00 to 0.00. Saturday from 12.00-0.00. Closed Sundays.

  • Telephone: 620 34 11 07

  • Terrace: Yes

  • Does Cruzcampo have?: Yes

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