From the business structure to creative design, the pandemic has conditioned Spanish designer fashion firms in recent months and this is seen in the collections that they presented yesterday on the second day of the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid.
A) Yes Hannibal Laguna got on the catwalk party dresses that repel fungi and bacteria, while Custo Barcelona opted for cotton sweatshirts combined with dual-use technological materials: comfortable to wear at home and on the street.
Eager to re-create a collection, Hannibal Laguna decided his proposal based on the design of masks and not the other way around. “Before we used to laugh at Michael Jackson for wearing it. Now, it is the main element of our life, not just any complement ».
A collection of simple shapes that was “difficult” to cope with due to the lack of events and social gatherings, the specialty of the designer, who knew how to discover “a hidden textile industry” specialist in technological home textiles that protect against viruses and bacteria .
“We have transferred these fabrics to our designs”, created on this occasion with her sister Isabel, with prints of palm leaves and Valencian damask in intense tones such as reds, fluorine or oranges. “A way to return to the party and the joy that we all want.”
Custo Barcelona has not taken his foot off the gas in this time and presented a collection as extensive as on other occasions, with 63 «looks» and a slogan I am the power but you too (I have the power but you too) a phrase «from resistance and with a certain irony ”towards the present time, explained Custo Dalmau, its creator.
“This situation is dragging on for a long time. I don’t know how much more people can take. We are at the limit, “said the designer with some concern about the psychological effect that the pandemic is causing on society.
“Clothing is an emotional and social purchase and these are precisely two of the areas affected,” he commented, a circumstance that is reflected in sales that “are focused on online and not in physical stores.”
The couturier has used technological fabrics in his collection, created with the collaboration of his sister Isabel
The confinement has disrupted the concept of living, according to Dalmau, for which he has presented a collection divided into three blocks. The most important, for the designer, is the one dedicated to «hybrid» sweatshirts made of cotton and technological materials, a combination that he calls «advanced language», since it can be used «to be comfortable at home, but also as an evening dress» .
The experimental dresses, with geometric cuts, volumes and acetate embroidery are another of the pillars in a collection in which parkas and padding are not lacking, a parade attended by the president of the Congress of Deputies, Meritxell Batet.
Ángel Vilda, the creative soul of Brain & Beast, reflects in his proposal the happiness caused by nostalgia, with a nod to the garments that members of his family have worn at some point. “It is a tribute to everyone who has made me happy”, where the memory of happy moments from another time is perceived in which there are references to his ancestors, but also to the youngest members of his family such as his niece. “I have rescued the embroidery on the dress that my grandmother wore to my parents’ wedding, improved,” he said.
A constructed and deconstructed collection, «Frankenstein garments», in which he combines three quarters of one piece with one quarter of another, an idea that he has put into practice with his grandfather’s clothes: a knitted sweater from which he removes a sleeve to replace it on the other of the house dressing gown.
Vilda takes advantage of mattress fabrics that she transforms into skirts in the purest Mary Shelley style, even in her wedding dress, made from two nightgowns.
Textured materials, fabrics with their own finish, origami games and patterns that reflect stories told “through the eyes of a child” that are complemented by flower pots and key ring earrings.
Maite By Lola Casademunt, one of the oldest brands on the 080 Barcelona catwalk, debuted yesterday in Madrid with a collection inspired by the London neighborhood of Chelsea.
“My intention is to make comfortable and flexible garments to be well dressed,” explained Maite Gassó Casademunt, current artistic director of the firm that her mother founded 40 years ago.
Eddie is an Australian news reporter with over 9 years in the industry and has published on Forbes and tech crunch.