Friday, May 27

Yotam Ottolenghi Recipes for Warming Winter Soups | Food


METERSoup recipes for January? Yes, but some cliches are cliches for a reason. Soups are really what our body and wallet need right now, being gentle with both. Here are three I’ll cook this month: a quick one and a green one; a more vigorous orange-yellow number; and a deep red one for those days when you can happily let a pan sit on the stove for three hours. Red, orange, green: let’s go!

Spinach and dulse soup (pictured above)

How to make a healthy spinach soup even greener? Add seaweed, of course. Any dried seaweed works here: dulse, wakame, or broken nori sheets.

Homework 15 minutes
Cook 35 min
It serves 4

For the croutons
110 ml olive oil
1 lemon
– finely grated zest, to get 1 teaspoon, and squeezed, to get 1 tablespoon
4 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed
1 sourdough bread (500 g), the crusts removed and cut into small pieces (300 g)
Sea salt flakes

For soup
100 ml olive oil
2-3 onions
, peeled and thinly sliced ​​(300 g net weight)
10 g fresh ginger, peeled and julienned
5 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced
1 hot dry chili, chopped
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 tablespoon cumin seeds
1 liter of hot water
Salt and pepper
50 g coriander leaves
, chopped
15g dill, chopped
400g baby spinach
15g dried dulse
(or any other dried seaweed – wakame, torn nori sheets, etc.)
2 lemons – 1 juice, to get 2 tablespoons, the other cut into wedges, to serve

Heat the oven to 240C (220C fan) / 475F / gas 9.

First, make the croutons. In a large bowl, whisk together the olive oil, lemon zest, lemon juice, and garlic, then toss the sourdough pieces through the batter to coat. Spread the bread on a large baking sheet lined with parchment paper and bake for about 12 minutes, until golden brown; some of the edges may be darker than others, which is fine. Remove from the oven, sprinkle with salt flakes and reserve.

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Now the soup. Put the oil, onion, ginger and garlic in a large saucepan that you have a lid for and put it over medium-high heat. Fry, stirring frequently, for 10 minutes, until the onions are soft. Add the chilli, tomato paste, turmeric, and cumin, and fry for three more minutes, scraping the bottom of the pan to prevent the tomato paste from sticking and burning.

Add the water, two and a half teaspoons of salt and a good ground pepper, cover and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the cilantro, dill, spinach and dulse, cook, stirring, for three more minutes, until all the leaves have wilted, then remove the heat and add the lemon juice. Serve hot with the croutons and lemon wedges.

From the pita

Yotam Ottolenghi from la pita
Yotam Ottolenghi from la pita

In parts of Asia, pitha refers to a mass. In Mauritius, where this recipe is from (thanks to our new test kitchen colleague, Chaya), the h is dropped to make it Agave. Traditionally, this noodle dough is made fresh while the dal is cooking. To make the new year easier, dry lasagna sheets (or whatever dry pasta that needs to be used) works great as a substitute.

Homework 20 minutes
Cook 1 hour and 20 minutes
It serves 6

200g chana dal
200 g of yellow peas
100 ml olive oil
2 onions
, peeled and finely chopped (300 g net weight)
6 cloves of garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
5 g fresh thyme, stems and all
4 stems of curry leaves, collected, to give 40 sheets (5g) in total
2 hot dried chilies
1½ teaspoon black mustard seeds
1½ tablespoon cumin seeds
1½ teaspoon ground turmeric
Salt and black pepper
200g lasagna sheets
, broken into bite-sized pieces

For the grilled tomato sauce
6 ripe tomatoes on the vine (900 g)
100g banana shallots, peeled and thinly sliced
3 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
2 red hot chili peppers, thinly sliced
3 tablespoons lemon juice
Salt and black pepper
50 ml olive oil
30g coriander
, chopped

Wash the chana dal and peas under cold running water until the water runs clear. Transfer to a large bowl, cover with plenty of hot water and leave to soak for 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, put the oil in a very large saucepan with high sides and place over medium-high heat. Add the onion, garlic, thyme, curry leaves, and dried chilies, and fry gently, stirring frequently, for 14 minutes, until lightly browned. Add the mustard, cumin and turmeric, sauté for another minute, then drain the dal and peas and add to the pan with two and a half liters of boiling water and a tablespoon of salt. If the pot is not big enough to hold all of the water at once, hold some and add it later, once some of the water has been absorbed.

Turn the heat to high (the soup should be simmering quickly) and let it cook for an hour, stirring occasionally and skimming the foam from the top with a slotted spoon.

Meanwhile, make the sauce. Heat a comal over high heat, add the tomatoes and the charcoal, turning regularly, for 20 minutes, until the skin is blackened and blistered all over. Let cool.

In a medium bowl, put the shallots with the garlic, chillies, lemon juice and two and a half teaspoons of salt, then mix with your fingers, lightly mashing the shallots in your hand.

Peel and discard the tomato skin, then chop the pulp. Add to the bowl of the shallot with the oil, a good grind of pepper and the cilantro, mix well, then transfer to a serving bowl.

Using a potato masher, lightly mash the dal, being careful not to crush it completely. Add 500 ml of boiling water to the pan, then add the lasagna and cook, stirring frequently so that the lasagna sheets do not stick together, for 16 minutes, stirring frequently to prevent the lasagna sheets from sticking together .

Serve in bowls, pour in some sauce, and serve the rest together.

Slow-cooked blackhead soup with pomegranate and beets

Yotam Ottolenghi's Slow-Cooked Blackhead Soup with Pomegranate and Beets
Yotam Ottolenghi’s Slow-Cooked Blackhead Soup with Pomegranate and Beets

This is somewhere between goulash and borscht, with the addition of the spicy, smoky undertones of chipotle chili and the tart sweetness of pomegranate. The meat needs three hours in the pan, so get it going in time.

Homework 20 minutes
Cook 3 h 15 min
It serves 4

500g of boneless veal shin, leg of lamb or pork stewed beef, tendon removed and cut into 4 cm pieces
500ml of 100% pomegranate juice
500 ml chicken or beef broth
500ml of water
4 beets
, peeled and cut into 4cm (700g) pieces
100 g of fresh cream or sour cream, to serve

For the chili paste
2 teaspoons chipotle flakes
1 teaspoon ground cumin
¾ teaspoon chili flakes
100 g tomato paste

5 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
½ onion, chopped
60g diced bacon
75 ml olive oil
2½ teaspoon salt

For the herb croutons
25g chives, finely chopped
15g dill, finely chopped
120 ml olive oil
½ teaspoon of salt
150 g sourdough bread
, roasted, rindless and cut into 3 cm pieces

Place all of the pasta ingredients in the small bowl of a food processor, pulse until smooth, then transfer to a large cast iron pot that you have a lid on. Add the meat, put the pot over high heat and fry for seven minutes, stirring occasionally; Lower the heat to medium if the meat or pasta begins to catch and burn. Pour in the pomegranate juice, broth and water, add the beets and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to medium-low, cover the pot and cook for three hours, until the meat is completely tender.

Meanwhile, make the croutons. In a medium bowl, mix the herbs with the oil and half a teaspoon of the salt, then add the toast and mix until completely covered with the green oil.

Divide the soup into four bowls, top each serving with a generous dollop of fresh cream, finish with the herb croutons and their oil, and serve.


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